14 September 2011

Ok-Ok-Ok- Sri Lanka- Curries, Couchsurfing, and Cooking


After a ridiculous day in Dubai and being awake for 2 plus days, we flew into Sri Lanka exhausted and just wanting to be lying down with our legs straight.  But once we landed and got off of the plane, we knew we were no longer in Middle Eastern/ Mediterranean countries.  We were in South Asia! Between the colors, sights and smells, there was a mixed emotion of home and overwhelmness (I know it isn’t a word but it’s the only one that can works).  I can’t really describe it. I felt like this trip had really started for me.  I had visited Turkey before, even though some places were new, and I had a sense of the country.  I did not have a sense of Sri Lanka before coming here, although it did feel familiar to me.  It reminded me a little of Malaysia with the smells mainly. A lot of their food has similar influences and spices and a lot of the fruit is the same. 
After taking a free bus to the bus station, then another bus into Colombo, to get yet another bus to the neighborhood we were staying in, and then walking around for a few minutes to get our bearings and head the guesthouse, we finally made it.  Check in took a total of three minutes before we were in our air-conditioned and fan, beautiful room.  We took turns taking showers and sleeping.  We had grandiose plans to go sleep on the beach but that did NOT happen, we passed out in those beds for a few hours.  When we woke up we thought we should do something so we walked to the beach.  We definitely took a path different than what our guesthouse guy told us because we were walking through a train station and people’s backyards to get to the beach. But once we were there, the water was warm and the view was pretty.  From there we headed towards our first meal.  All of us are pretty adventurous so we picked the place with the most locals and a display of the food. 
Our first adventure with Sri Lankan cuisine was a huge success! For the low, low price of 3 dollars a person, we feasted on 3 different types of curry, rice, chicken pieces, roti- egg and plain, vegetables, and a few other smaller dishes.  We didn’t know that if they put it on the table and you don’t eat it, they don’t charge you.  So even though our meal was pretty cheap, if we stuck with the rice and curry dish, it would have been even cheaper! It is good to eat local! We even bought breakfast that consisted of roti and a mixture of the curry gravies.  It was amazing both times!!!
The funny part about our first experience with curry is the entire hand-washing/eating process.  Having a father that ate curry and rice with his hands, I had picked up the technique.  Eating with my hands is no problem, granted I might not have it completely down, but I am okay.  However, the process leading up to the eating is not something I am familiar with.  I knew they would offer you something to wash your hands but was not sure what.  On the table is a bigger bowl that has water in it that looks like it was already used.  But before we sat down at the table, there were already cups of water on the table.  And once we were seated, the waiter brought three more cups and a pitcher.  We thought they were drinking water.  Then he brought us three bowls that were stacked and the top dish had hot water and spoons in it.  We figured we would wash our hands in the hot water and then dump it into the big bowl.  What we now know is the cups of water are what we use originally to wash our hands over the big bowl. And the hot water in the serving bowls is just to show they washed them.  No matter how stupid we looked, it definitely was a wonderful eating experience!
The next two days, we had to deal with our Indian visa stuff.  It is a pain to get a visa to that country! And we still don’t have it in our hands yet! Oh man, oh man!  We ate at another local place but this had take-away only.  It was pretty good and spicy.
Once we finished with our visa stuff, we headed inland to Kandy.  We arranged to couchsurf in Kandy and that was a wonderful arrangement! It was not just one host but it was with a family.  Our hosts were wonderful and we were about the 220 plus guests! Their first surfer was on December 26, 2009 and for the past two years they have hosted 220 people.  They have had a person there at least once a week.   They keep a journal of the guests and each one has to write in it.  There are four kids, all older than us and doing well for themselves.  The mother, father, and the sister that lives at home were the main hosts.  They took care of us and helped arrange for us to go to the touristy places. 
One of those arrangements included setting us up with a tuk-tuk driver.  The whole time we were in Colombo, we were taking buses everywhere we went because they are ridiculously cheap.  However, in Kandy the bus system isn’t quite as easy so for most of our transportation needs, we walked or took our tuk-tuk. He was great! He laughed at us a few times and there was a bit of a language barrier but he got us around in a very fast manner. He seemed to know everyone and always was smiling at us.  Every time we would ask him something, he would shake his head and say ok-ok-ok.  We never figured out if that meant yes or no… but our cross culture skills worked and we saw and did everything we planned on and more!
The best part of the couchsurfing experience for me was that the mother taught me a few Sri Lankan dishes! I now know how to make hoppers- egg and plain, coconut sambal, chicken curry, an eggplant curry that is to die for, banana flower curry, and dahl- although I wasn’t able to write down the recipe.  Now all I need is to learn how to cook rice without over or under cooking it and I would be good to go! Ha ha! It was a wonderful experience being able to watch her in her kitchen. 
The first night I learned the curry and dahl.  The second night she wanted me to cook something for her while she taught me a few more dishes.  I decided I would cook a lemon chicken dish that my mom taught me.  It is really delicious but because we weren’t using an oven, I had to tweak the recipe to use it on the stovetop.  I was very nervous about the way it would turn out because she kept asking me if I wanted to put other spices in there.  She kept offering curry, curry leaves, red pepper, and a few others.  I felt bad having to say no because I am sure she knows better than I do but I stuck to the recipe pretty well.  She said she really liked my dish and would make it again for her family!!! Probably one of the highest compliments I have gotten about cooking. 
We went and saw elephants the next day but I will save that for my next blog! Such a great time and a wonderful couchsurfing experience!



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